A very quick stop, and a very honest impressions from Lago di Como

We were driving from Turin to Lake Garda on our way back to Prague and decided to make a spontaneous pit‑stop at Como (the town at the southern tip of Lake Como). Van parked, bikes out, and we coasted down into town in that furnace‑hot July air. It was packed–⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠like festival‑day packed. The lakeside lawns shimmered, but the only “beach” in front of the Tempio Voltiano had no‑swimming signs (which many people were ignoring). We didn’t. We surrendered to carbs instead: tiny pizzette and still‑warm pastries from a local shop that absolutely saved our mood.

Was Como pretty? Yes–⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠arched lanes, flashy boats, mountain backdrop. Was I smitten at first sight? Not really. But that’s on me: zero research, peak season, wrong spot to swim. Next time I’d do it differently (plan below).

Why no swimming right there? The little beach by the Tempio Voltiano sits at the mouth of the Cosia stream, a spot with posted bathing bans due to pollution and safety; local police fine swimmers in summer, and regional eco groups flag this stretch every year. If you want to swim in town, look for designated spots like Lido di Villa Olmo or Lido di Villa Geno instead. 

The Weird & Wonderful Side of Lake Como

Because I only had time for a snack and a stroll, I did some digging afterwards to learn what I’d actually biked into. Lake Como is much more than a pretty Instagram backdrop:

It’s seriously deep. Up to about 414 m (1,358 ft) –⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠ one of the deepest lakes in Europe. What looks like a gentle edge can drop off steeply just a few meters out.

Swimming isn’t always allowed. Those “no swimming” signs aren’t random. The lake has sudden underwater slopes, cold currents lurking under warm surface water, and heavy boat traffic in some spots. Some areas are simply restricted for safety. (There are lidos and beaches you can find if you plan ahead.)

It’s been a retreat forever. Romans built villas here. Aristocrats and celebrities followed. Today it’s part fairy-tale, part theme park –⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠ depending on where you stand.

Microclimate magic. Because of its shape and surrounding mountains, Como has a mild, almost Mediterranean microclimate where palms and camellias thrive right next to alpine peaks.

Knowing that makes the lake feel a little more alive and mysterious, even if you’re just passing through.

Beyond the City of Como

We only made it to the southern arm –⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠ the city of Como itself. If I’m honest, I’d pictured something quieter and more postcard-perfect. But that’s probably on me. With more time (and less heatstroke) I could’ve wandered side streets, lingered by the water at dawn or dusk, and seen a softer side of the city.

If you’re planning a visit and have time, people rave about Bellagio (“the pearl of the lake”), Varenna (romantic and walkable), Menaggio (balanced, a bit calmer), and the Tremezzo/Lenno area (Villa del Balbianello –⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠ yes, that Star Wars villa). Next time, that’s where I’m heading.

My Takeaway

Even though my stop was rushed and sweaty, Lake Como still gave me flashes of why it’s world-famous: the dramatic backdrop, the sense of history, the tiny pastries eaten on a curb while tourists shuffle by.

I don’t want to give up on or hold a grudge against this place. If anything, I want to come back slower, with a plan for where to swim, and let the lake show me its quieter corners.

So consider this my honest postcard: not a dreamy Pinterest board, but a real slice of travel life. And if you’ve been there, tell me in the comments where you found the magic –⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠ because I know it’s there.

A better “do‑over” for a half‑day stop (van + bikes)

If we had 6–8 hours to redeem our rushed visit:

Park west of mid‑lake (around Lenno/Tremezzina) where access is easier than Como center at peak times.

Ride a scenic section of the Greenway del Lago, a mostly easy 11 km path linking villages, villas, and viewpoints (you can do a short segment and bus/ferry back). 

Swim + snack at Lido di Lenno or Menaggio Lido.

Pop to Bellagio or Varenna by ferry for that “postcard” hour. 

Golden‑hour detour: If you must see Como itself, ride the funicular to Brunate for views, then gelato back down by the Duomo.